Chandigarh to Tirthan

PRELUDE 

I had not planned to write a blog on our Tirthan trip, because it was not a road trip the way I understand road trips - neither is it self driven for one, and nor switching places every day or every second day, like Rash Behari Bose fleeing from the British police. 

This time around, we planned to fly to Chandigarh, then take a taxi to Tirthan valley. Moreover, we planned to stay put for a week or so at each homestay. Mind you, this time the planning was up to Panna. I had, in a burst of zeal, thought for a while to drive down there, but the thought of our poor Punch parked for days on end without any gambolling made me decide to fly down like normal sane-minded tourists. 

I warn you, however, that this will not be an account of the day-to-day struggles like our mahayatra blogs. It will be more chilled out, maybe summarised over 2-3 days, trying to give an idea of the place and people here, and the pace of life in these pristine valleys. 

Arriving in Chandigarh (29.9.26) 

Yesterday, we had landed in Chandigarh around 2.00 pm and repaired to our Hotel Citi Heights in Sector 22D, which is a pretty central location. We loved the planned and laid back vibes of the city, starting right from the cute airport. 

We had the afternoon free , and after a bit of rest, decided to visit the Rock Garden, started by Nek Chand from a modest hut in 1957. We are glad we visited, because, the same has now been expanded to a 40 acre curated natural walkway, at places walking through narrow alleys, ducking through low doors, suddenly emerging into waterfalls, and lined with rock carvings and rock mosaic work that became more and more intricate as we progressed. It was an hour well-spent. 

We had booked transport through an app called Savaari to pick us at 7 am tomorrow and take us to Tirthan. But we finally decided to cancel it and go with the taxi driver who brought us from the airport to the hotel, since we liked the guy and I am a bit leery about apps. I sent him our destination location, and he called back scratching his ear on the phone and saying that this Homestay was so much in the interior that normal taxis from here do not go down there, and he has arranged with a local fellow to switch cars for the last stretch of ‘bad roads’ and the super-last stretch of ‘very bad roads’. The roads become very narrow and very bumpy so which car rules there? The Alto, of course, with a Himachali driver at the helm. We shook on it and went to sleep, having preponed departure to 6.30 am. 

Leaving Chandigarh (30.9.26-6.30 am) 

Our driver was there on the dot at 6.30 am, Sameer, the son of Naresh from yesterday. He keeps doing this Manali run. He will drop us at Aut, the start of the Tirthan diversion, and carry on to Manali, where he will pick up his friend and go on to Pangaon and Leh for some frolicking. What a life. 

Breakfast at Bhure da Dhaba (8.00 am) 

Dhabas and dhaba food are highly enjoyable in Punjab. These are of course roaring big joints, dishing out alu paratahas like frisbees, served with huge bottles of pickles on the tables, and we were in and out in 20 mins flat. 

This place has washrooms that are unique. There is a big lead-in room with sofas and a TV. And the washroom block is air conditioned. No doubt a tired traveller, already running a couple of hours late, rushing in for a quick business, will be tempted to while away an hour to watch the next episode of "Desparate Housewives".

Changeover at Aut (11.45 pm) 

What with breakfast and some wait for road tax, it was 5 hours by the time we reached the start of the Aut tunnel (220 km), which carries on to Kullu-Manali. Our road to Tirthan turns off to the right. This is the point where the river Tirthan comes and meets the majestic Beas, which is the river which flows past Kullu and Manali. Our Alto was driven by a young chap names Rakesh, who loaded our big suitcases on the carrier, shoved our small suitcases in the trunk and on the front seat, and we were off. 

If we had a competition for drivers who give their passengers continuous heart attacks, I think somewhere on the top will be a Himachali driver, driving an Alto like a two-wheeler, who knows the road like the back of his hand. I mean, there are curves, and there are blind curves, and there are blind curves that are just six feet wide, and there are blind curves that are six feet wide around which a bus comes pell mell, both screeching to a stop with inches to spare, and our Alto reversing on a curving slope with Rakesh opening his door and looking back - he drove it all as if he was on the Poorvanchal expressway on a national holiday. Clinically, I admired his driving skills, but it’s difficult to be clinical while clutching each other in the back seat. 

Arriving at Tung (1.30 pm) 

Our Homestay was almost the end of the geographical road. From Aut, the road upto Banjar (25 km) is bumpy but widish, from where this widish road (technically an NH) carries of southward to Jibhi and finally to Shimla, while the Tirthan branch is shunted to a narrower badly-maintained road which continues to Gushaini (10 km) after which the road branches again, following a tributary of the Tirthan, called the Palachan rivulet, for another 7 km, past the village of Tung, finally landing us at our Walnut House Homestay. A small village called Bathad lies 1-2 km beyond. That’s it. End of the road. This is perhaps the deepest penetration in Tirthan valley possible. 

The Homestay was below road level and not visible at all, but a panicked phone call brought Kamli bhai, a partner, popping up the stairs, like a benevolent jack-in-the-box. Our driver Rakesh departed, shaking his head, not believing that a homestay existed in this remote Hobbitland. 

But the place is a gem. Immaculate rooms and washroom. A space in front with rustic tables and chairs where food is served in pleasant weathers like this. One level lower towards the river, there are a couple of seating areas. From there a footpath goes down to the river. The river is visible right from the room of course. We had been rubbernecking at Homestays as we passed Banjar and Gushaini, the more popular spots, but though there were swankier looking places, they were all crowded around each other, and did not offer the remoteness that this place did, if you know what I mean. 

We had a late lunch of rice, daal and sabji (this place offers veg food as part of its package), and Panna promptly changed into her wading clothes, clambered down the slopes and plonked into the river. The weather was such that we did not need woollens during the day, and the water was cold but not icy. So Panna’s day was made. 

This place is a valley, surrounded by green hills, topped by deep blue sky where pure white clouds were floating listlessly. It was like a picture postcard. No, that’s unfair. Pictures simply cannot capture the 360-degree beauty of such places. And the roar of the river is so soothing. 

We went back to our rooms and slept like babes till 6.00 pm. Darkness was just falling, though direct sun had vanished an hour ago because of the hill effect. The weather was getting chilly, and by the time we went to bed, it was at 10 degC. However, the wooden rooms retained heat quite well. 

Any other trip, I would have ended by saying “Tomorrow we travel to XYZ.”, but not this time. And we are both loving this lack of locomotion, for a change.